Coregeek Creations is in the house! Bill and Eric answer questions about fabric stencils, wet sanding, silicone paints, smoke effects, bandsaws, removing bubbles, Epsilon Pro, three-part molds, large costume mobility, and more!
- A Look at the Frostmourne Internals
- Hexagon Stencils
- Sewing a World of Warcraft Tabard
- Prop: Shop – Custom Stencils for your Custom Props!
- Immortal Masks Tested Video
- Wizard Stick
- Specialty Resin
- Band Saw
- WM Armory – Primed Foam Gun Build
- Foamsmith eBook
- Degassing Chamber 3 CFM Pump from Harbor Freight
- Best Value Vacs
- Pressure Pot
- Compare Smooth-On Products
- Guide to Sealing Foam Props and Costumes
- Angelus Bronze Acrylic Paint
- Making Murloc Costumes for BlizzCon 2016
- SKS Props Orc
- Hoku Props Lionhardt
- Tested Glowforge Video
- Zach Fischer Illustration
- Poly Latex 60
Thanks for using our Amazon Affiliate links for all of your prop and costume making purchases.
Questions from the Show:
How do you stencil on fabric? Specifically on your N7 armor?
I’ve recently been watching all your videos and sometime you mention wet sanding. From what i can tell you’re just adding water while you sand. So my question is, what is wet sanding exactly and why is it important?
I am working on a foam armor build of Gogo Tomago from Big Hero 6. Unfortunately, I’m stuck on her wheels. I made the leg pieces and cut large foam circles for the wheels, but I can’t figure out a way to attach the discs to the leg pieces without them sitting right up against my leg and still be stable/secured. Any suggestions as to how to go about this?
Do you have any recommendations for flexible silicone casting materials and paints that will adhere to them? This is to create a component cast in silicone. Not using it for mold making.
Space City Props
This one is for Eric, based on the mini smoke machine that you made, would it be possible to have a stronger output like if you used a stronger pump or a focus nozzle to get a further projection of smoke to look like rocket or jet engine?
I recently was at a northwest 501st Legion meet and greet. While there, a brand was suggested to me for foam, Speciality Resins http://www.specialtyresin.com/ Specifically, the product suggested was Color-Pro. I was told you would need to put 3 coatings of wood glue on the foam before use. It could then be sanded down. Do you know anything about this product or products by Speciality Resin for EVA? Would you be willing to do maybe demo or talk about it a bit like you did with the EVA sealing video?
Bill and Eric, any plans on visiting Germany next year?
I’m getting frustrated w/ curved cuts on eva foam using only handheld blade. Can you talk about your experience using scroll and band saws? Are they really worth the higher price tags compared to cutting blades and are there any particular saws that are better suited for foam crafting compared to the rest?
Hi Bill I was wondering if you have ever considered using something like Rustoleum or Krylon paint primer on EVA foam pieces as a sealant?
I’m a visual artist and I have a little shop of resin eyes for Ball Jointed Dolls. My problem is, I need a degassing chamber for my epoxy resin. The eyes I make are between 10 to 18mm. I was told I need a pump that has 7.5 microns, but I can’t find that on http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/ In my country (chile) there aren’t local shops for this so I have to order internationally and wait at least two months for it to arrive. Should I just buy a kit from bestvacs? Or it is okay to buy the pot and the pump separately?. My resin cures really fast so that’s why I need those specifications (7.5 microns)
Lee (from blizzcon)
Have either of you used Epsilon Pro? How does it compare to the old Epsilon in terms of durability/flexibility/sandability/applyability, and any other misc. ability?
A long while ago i asked you about making a vex minotaur cosplay. I was wondering what was the brand and color of spray paint that was used in the vex goblin cosplay so I can match it.
Chris from BrokenBladeWorkshop
I’m currently working on a 2 part mold of a 10 mm pistol from Fallout 4. Thing is, I want to have the magazine capable of sliding in and out of the handle . Any advice on allowing the handle to be otherwise hollow without compromising the mold strength? Thank you for your time!
I’m working on starting a YouTube channel and I was wondering if you think it is important to have all the social media accounts up and running before you post on YouTube?
I’m building a to-scale D.Va costume, and I’m wondering if you have any experience (directly or as a handler for someone) with maneuvering extremely large costumes, especially in regards to doorways? The skeleton for the armour is going to be PVC, so I’m going to use couplers to make at least some of the armour plates detachable, but do you have any other tips?
Nick at Modulus Props
I just watched the new Tested video on the Glowforge laser cutter and I’d love to get my hands on one of those. What’s the next major tool you’d like to add to your shop?
I’ve almost finished my Shoretrooper armour but I’m having trouble trying to figure out how to construct the Ab plate. (Tummy armour) I’m wondering if anyone has any good tips or tricks when it comes to making tummy armour? I’d like to be able to sit down if possible.
There is a odd shape with my armor, and it looks like it’s one peace. It goes around the neck, how would you guys do it? I plan to have the chest armor open at the sides so I can get in. But also no idea how to pattern the thing.
Do you have a substitute for Polylatex 60? A bucket is a lot.
Bill does juggling; Does Coregeek have any hidden talents?